K. OLECH

The fresh members: Piotr Mlotecki (leader), W. Branski, A beneficial. Gardas, W. Klaput, Yards. Malatynski K. Olech (deputy commander), J. Olszewski, M. Piatkowski, A beneficial. Pietraszek (doctor), Meters. Rogalski, Z. Rubinoski, An excellent. Sobolewski, Z. Staszyszyn, An excellent. Strumitto and you will S. Wdowiak.

The first ASCENT Out of KANGBACHEN, 1974

The original team spanning A good. Gardas, M. Malatynski, K. Olech, J. Olszewski, Yards. Rogalski, A. Sobolewski with Jepa, Sonam and you can 12 porters stumbled on this new Ramtang Area to your elizabeth place the spot where the Jugoslav expedition got within the 1965.

I reach performs making preparations Foot to your chief caravan category, carrying out the fresh new reconnaissance of your own npper part of the valley and you will watching the latest icefall and you may moraine whereby the latest Jugoslavs reached the original terrace from Kangbachen.

The newest icefall, molded in the a couple accounts try really fractured additionally the snow level it is facial skin made difficult the first observation out of crevasses. The edges of one’s icefall was basically endangered because of the avalanches, one to eventually was for the reason that the brand new seraes on basic terrace. yards. everyday and causing avalanches of different products. Due to the recce we selected a safe station through the center of the icefall, they are a fairly silent part involving the seracs and snowfields therefore we supposed.

With the 20 April, i pitched the original short term tent on top of new embankment of the original patio (5750 meters.). 2 days after we discover a path from the moraine hence are endangered faster by the stone-avalanches than the one to used by the fresh new Jugoslavs. Camp I happened to be created for the 28 April in the 5400 yards. regarding icefall however, was only for use when transporting the new plenty. Camp II (5850 m.) is escort review Huntsville a 3rd of your way-up the first patio. With the six Could possibly get, we were currently in a temporary tent during the 6200 m., below a steep deal with causing brand new apparent seat amongst the basic terrace as well as the Jannu Area. That it exposed mountain was secure which have fixed ropes. All of our functions is actually done in continuing accumulated snow and you will piece of cake blowing continuously up until the noon. At the beginning of the latest early morning of eleven May, I leftover the latest tent (at 6200 m.) which have A beneficial. Sobolewski for the Foot Camp. I transpired quickly – an hour to Go camping II, 1J instances to help you Camp I and by 9-29 an excellent.m. we were currently from inside the Feet Go camping. This new route from icefall not resided! Repaired ropes and you may indicators was less than freeze dust – here must have come a huge way regarding ice stops.

I met all-in Ft Camp. Right here i decided to create another path to the original terrace from the higher an element of the horizontal moraine in which i observed rather quicker dropping stones today than step three days eardier. With the p We and brought its products so you can Go camping II. From this go out discover zero Go camping I but i continued to hold the prior numeration. I oriented Go camping III (6350 meters.) into the seat.

On p III, we remaining the base Camp including J. Olszewski and you can visited Go camping II. This new route via moraine try rationally designated on the adorned stone-cairns by the S. Wdowiak and you will Sherpa Wangchuck just who demonstrated a sizeable artistic show inside doing that really work. The team out-of P. Mlotecki came along the same go out to Legs Go camping. Every other group-users have there been except the Sirdar who’d gone to Ghunza.

Overnight i hit Camp III and returned on the night for the tent under the saddle, the spot where the piece of cake wasn’t therefore sharp. Into sixteen Could possibly get, a powerful cinch generated the productive action quite difficult The team regarding W. Branski move sometime to come over the saddle, after that originated to Base, once fixing ropes. Following day i repaired these ropes to own continued have fun with, produced him or her stretched because of the throughout the another 100 m. and turned back for the nights to help you Go camping III.